Panchakarma or Bust

Check your inhibitions at the door because every opening in your body is about to be invaded. The analogy goes like this; You bring your car for an oil change every 5000 km so the same should go for your body. Panchakarma is a deep internal and external cleanse that consists of a variety of ancient techniques, herbal remedies and dietary restrictions … some a little more pleasant than others.

Day 1: Bob and I arrive at 3am in Rishikesh, a town located in the foothills of the Himalayas on the banks of the Holy River Ganga, home to many great Sages, Saints and Rishis throughout history. After traveling through the mountain roads for the past four days, we are completely exhausted and ready to nestle down and get some good rest. All of Rishikesh is asleep except for a few men drinking chai and a couple of young rickshaw drivers. The bridge that takes us to the Parmarth Niketen Ashram is closed due to animals such as elephants crossing or so the bridge attendant informs us. We thank our driver for taking us this far and transfer our bags to the rickshaw where the two boys assure us they can take us the rest of the way via a road for two wheelers. The end of the road arrives and we still have not reached the gates of the Ashram. We set out on foot even though I am very wary of the street dogs barking and exactly how far we must walk carrying all of our luggage. And then it was like magic … Bob and I walking across the swiftly flowing Ganga on a suspended bridge, wind in our hair and the full moon shining in full force … led by the skinny rickshaw driver reluctantly showing us the way. We arrive at the Gates and enter the compound. Eerie figures of Krishna, Shiva and all the gang greet us in the moonlight. A concrete bench near the reception entrance looks like the perfect place to rest our bones. I close my eyes and listen to the sounds for a few hours. In the early morning, a very happy Western woman sporting a crisp, white sari greets us. She gets us tea and toast, as well as, a room to shower and rest before our room is ready. We wash the filth from the journey and sleep like babies. When we awake in the afternoon it is damn hot and so incredibly bright I can hardly see. I feel like a mole as I rub my eyes and head to the dining hall for lunch. The food is delicious and clean. We move into our permanent room and get settled. Bob visits the Ayurveda clinic to see Dr. Maurya who he has been communicating with before we arrived. He is delighted by his wealth of knowledge and hopeful that the Panchakarma will be the answer to his health problems he has been experiencing for the past number of years. It will involve dedication and a complete lifestyle change.

Day 2: Wake up at 6am for Pranayama (Yogic breathing techniques) and Asana class. We are being taught Hatha Yoga and I am trying to patiently absorb the teachings of this very gentle and slow style of Yoga. Hatha Yoga at this Asharam is a world apart from the Ashtanga style of southern India. It incorporates chanting and prayers before, during and after the Sun and Moon Salutations. I am secretly hoping that the pace will be picked up but know in my heart that I need to just accept the situation whole-heartedly.

After Yoga, a simple breakfast consisting of tea, toast and porridge with aromatic spices is served. I am then off to my Ayurvedic consultation. Apparently I am a Vatta-Pitta … meaning Air/Ether – Fire. With too much air and ether in my constitution. Reading about that specific combination was like hitting the nail on the head. VP people generally have poor circulation and love the sun but cannot handle it. We also love to eat but have trouble digesting large meals. We have wavy hair and when unbalanced fear will often alternate with anger as a response to stress. This can lead to bullying and domineering. A healthy, balanced VP weds the capacity for original thought and the expertise at application of theory. We like to ‘Get er done’. Lightness and intensity are common qualities with a need for intensive self-development. There are tendencies toward addiction as well as a desire for stability.

I decided to go for the Panchakarma for a few days. A program has been prescribed to purify my body and alleviate stress. The first treatments are Abhayanga, an intense oil massage, steam and a ‘basti’, a full-blown South Indian enema. I was first asked to take off all my clothes. Standing there in the buff, I felt so nervous and intimidated. Thank God my practitioners were female. After receiving a makeshift ‘loin cloth’, I laid down on a wooden table and proceeded to receive the best shake down oil massage of a lifetime … and I am talking tons of heated oil and some serious rubbing. Next I was off to the steam which involved sitting in an old cabinet like contraption with your head sticking out of the top hooked up to a pressure cooker and a canister of gas. It resembled something out of a Frankenstein movie but man you could sure feel the sweat starting to roll and the toxins releasing their nasty grip. And for the grand finale … was the ‘basti’. After traveling to Rishikesh and eating food in a variety of unsanitary conditions my plumbing had backed up for six entire days. I understood the rationale and was reluctantly willing to go through with the cure. As I watched them prepare the tools for the basti I could not help but cringe and wonder how the heck I allowed myself to get into this situation. After a few uncomfortable minutes the procedure was finished and I tore off to the toilet. The hounds had been released and I felt like a new person.

Day 3: Early morning Pranayama and Yoga. I am having trouble with certain breathing techniques due to my collapsed right nostril. But nevertheless I will persevere and perhaps with enough discipline begin to clarify the nasal passage. I tried to get into the ‘Advanced’ late morning yoga class but was shot down by Mataji who said it would be too intense in combination with the Panchakarma. Another lesson in patience and letting go of my expectations. Apparently I can’t always get what I want.

However, the Panchakarma treatment today was divine. So much so, I thought I had gone to heaven and joined the ranks of the Hindu Gods. Another full body rub down with herbal oils with not just one but two pairs of hands. Following that my forehead was placed underneath a clay pot resembling a pendulum. My eyes were covered and warm oil continuously poured across my head for 20 glorious minutes. My hair was full of oil and the loving hands of my practitioner, Mary smoothed my hair to keep the oil draining off the table. Talk about the ultimate relaxation and peace of mind. I was a very happy girl after that experience.

In the evenings, Hindu prayers are sung by resident leaders and their choir of ‘orphaned’ boys beside the Ganga River. This is called the ‘Special Divine Ganga Seva’ which is broadcasted to millions of people across India and other countries. A gathering of onlookers participates in the nightly ritual making it quite the spectacle. Banana leaf boats of flowers and incense are set down the river and offered to the Gods to wash away negative thoughts and sins.

‘Parmarth’ means ‘dedicated to the welfare of all’ and ‘Niketan’ means ‘an abode’. This includes both the spiritual welfare of the guests, seekers and pilgrims who come to stay as well as the physical welfare of the needy, impoverished people. In addition to the programs run by the Ashram they are also actively involved in a variety of programs and activities to care for the poor, sick, hungry, homeless and illiterate.