Monday, October 13, 2008

The Law of Karma



A couple weeks back we discovered a yoga philosophy class at the Ved Niketan Ashram just down the road. What better way to learn about 'The Bhagavad Gita' then to have it interpreted by Swami Dharananda, a devotee of the Ashram for the past 20 years. The lectures took place in the basement of the main worship centre of the Ashram. It felt a little eerie walking amidst the caged figures of the deities down to a dark room encompassed by a number of 'meditation caves'. These meditation caves sparked my curiosity. They were like small prison cells where one would sit with no distractions or much natural light. In the middle of the basement the group gathered before an alter that showcased pictures of all the enlightened masters, Gods and great teachers of the world.

In his first few lectures, Swamiji candidly discussed the subject of Karma.



Law #1: Law of Karma. Swamiji used all kinds of explicit examples from smoking to adultery to telling lies to charity to illustrate how our physical and mental actions can create a 'fruit' that is either pleasurable or painful. These actions subsequently create 'sanskaras' or seeds that produce desire to repeat the action. So that's why it's always so difficult to learn our lessons ... and more often than not we learn the hard way!

Law #2: Bondage / Reincarnation. Our karma binds the soul to a cycle of repeated births by the chain of: action - fruit - seed - desire. In other words, our soul takes on a body again and again in order to become aware of our soul nature. The evolution of the soul journey is quite interesting. According to Hindu tradition the soul starts in the mineral kingdom - moves to the plant world where it must go through many species - then it moves to the animal kingdom to develop the mind and finally to the human level so it can become aware of itself again. The soul inside a body is continually evolving and when it has learned its lessons in this body, it moves on to the next. If a soul does bad karma in the human body or has strong attachments it will go back a level or two. Apparently we should be careful of how attached we become to our pets. Does that mean I am coming back in my next life as Mrs. Softers or Little Boots? I always thought a cat's life would be pretty sweet ... just joking God :)

Enter Karma Yoga, the science to free us from the painful effects of karma.
Here are a few examples of how we can burn the karma we have accummulated:
Note: 'God' can be interchanged with the word 'good'
~ Drop expectations of fruits
~ Offer fruits to God
~ Do actions/service without thoughts or expectiations - give up some comforts to help others. Mother Theresa is the prime example here.
~ Act as an instrument of God
~ All actions done to please God
~ Learn to see God in everything / person - even in times of suffering and pain this notion can help us grow
~ Appreciate the creator in the vastness of nature
~ Make pilgrimages / visit holy spots to take the benefit of the high levels of energy/vibrations
~ Learn to like that which the mind dislikes
~ Learn to burn your desires in the fire of self-control (Note to self)
~ Charity to poor/sick, monks, dead relatives
~ Pranayama exercies
~ And of course, we can also burn our karma and seeds through meditation ... the fire of wisdom.

So Karma is really about finding equilibrium again. Taking responsibility for ourselves and our actions is our duty so we can experience the freedom of the here and now. Can we truly evolve our consciousness? In this lifetime? In the next?

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

New Friends


When you stay in a place for more than a few days you start to get to know the locals. A friendly smile turns into a conversation and next thing you know you are trekking through jungle paths in search of a waterfall. Meet Bharat, the youngest son of a family who owns the chai and samosa stand just down the street. Such a sweet character ... touching the heads of every cow, acknowledging the statue of Krishna and saying hello to all the neighborhood families. It was Bharat that took us on a backcountry walking tour on Sunday. As we headed up the mountain, he was concerned about our timing since we started out a little late in the afternoon ... apparently it was the time the elephants came out and there was a possibility we could encounter a stampede. 'Oh Great! I hope we don't meet any tigers', I joked. He laughed and assured us they were high in the alpine. As we neared the waterfall, we entered a small Ashram where one lone Baba lived. He called down from his perch wanting to know where we were going. Bharat told him we were going to visit the waterfall. Baba warned against this pointing to paw prints on the ground. A tiger had indeed been roaming these parts and dusk was the time to cool down for a drink at the waterfall. Baba said to come back another day earlier in the morning and he would show us all the hidden caves around the area. We turned back and headed home. The waterfall awaits us for another day ...

The Streets of Rishikesh at Night


Last night as Bob and I were walking home on the quiet streets I shed a tear. I think it all just started to hit me … where we really were, how many people lived on the streets, what they had to endure … on the other side of the world in such a strange and mysterious place. As we stopped to buy a chocolate at a small confection stand I heard the sweet sounds of a wooden flute echoing through the streets. Turning to catch a glimpse, a dark figure was hunched over the curb, legs crossed with only a stump remaining below his left knee. His prosthetic leg sat unattached beside him while three cows and a baby calf listened intently to his lonely song. Was his prosthetic limb and flute his only possessions? I was sure he would spend the night like many others on the streets of Rishikesh. Sleeping on top of a vegetable cart, under a Chai stand or on the Ghats by the side of the Ganga River, perhaps within a small alcove curled in a ball. Some covered with blankets, others completely exposed. Did you have your dinner? Where is your family? Scrawny dogs and their puppies wake up to explore the remains of the day while the cows and mammoth bulls curl up on the pavement in their usual spots. To the Babas, cripples, mothers, fathers and children of the streets … I send my love to you.

How to make a lassie

Rishikesh is an aspiring Yogi’s dream:
~ More Ashrams than hotels
~ Pure vegetarian and Ayurvedic food
~ A ban on Alcohol
~ Hindu prayers and songs flowing through the streets
~ Yoga instructors galore of all styles and disciplines
~ All kinds of travelers and pilgrims interested in a similar path


My yoga experience at the Ashram was lacking and I was just not feeling satisfied. I decided to look elsewhere and discovered a myriad of options. That day Bob and I moved from the Ashram to a family run Guest House down the road. After three days of treatments I stopped my Panchakarma to focus exclusively on Yoga. Dr. Maurya recommended I meet Sarinder Singh at the Raj Palace Hotel. My first class was like coming home. It all felt so right, so comfortable. I immediately connected with Sarinder’s kind and loving energy. His attentiveness to each individual and knowledgeable adjustments instilled confidence. He gave me renewed hope of healing my left hip that has been in pain and tightly locked for the past year and a half. My entire practice has been redefined and injected with insightful alignment principles, relaxation techniques and a suite of new Asanas to open the hips, shoulders, spine and mind.
Occasionally during the class, Sarinder discusses the benefits of meditation and has used a few creative analogies:
~ If a seed is split in half it cannot grow. As a whole and under the proper conditions, the seed can grow into a beautiful flower with solid roots, a nice fragrance and beautiful petals. Similarly, acceptance is our blossoming. We can become more balanced, peaceful and whole through meditation, asana and pranayama. The flower is the centre of nature while the soul is the centre of our being.
~ Do you look at yourself in the mirror before you leave the house? This is a common habit to make sure our physical appearance is OK before we interact with the outside world. How do we check our mind? How do we look inside ourselves? Through meditation, we can look at our mind to observe inner selves, recognize our negative patterns and eventually through practice and patience purify our thoughts. Turn your mind to the inside.
~ How do you make a lassie? By mixing milk with curd. In order to make the curd, we must first boil the milk, add a little bit of curd and let it sit in stillness for a very long time. We can then enjoy a tasty lassie. Again, by observing of our thoughts, breathing consciously and relaxing the body we can quiet the mind. Access peace and true happiness.



I have the best intentions to practice meditation. I understand the benefits but don’t know why I am not making the time to sit in stillness with myself. I have found an early morning session at another Ashram where a Swami will guide you through meditation techniques. But alas I have yet to attend. What is holding me back? Why am I clinging to old mindsets and not exploring new possibilities? I will set my alarm for tomorrow morning and try to go. Stillness in action …



Now back to Yoga classes … Last Sunday evening, I had somewhat of a different experience with another teacher at a hotel just down the street. I ventured into the yoga room, curious to explore alternative teachers and styles. This young man had quite the opposite vibe and it didn’t help matters that I was the only student in a space that resembled a dingy cave with room for a maximum of three people. The routine started off fine but quickly digressed as we moved through the standing postures. The door was locked behind us, curtains drawn and the room became more and more claustrophobic with his monotone instructions piercing my eardrums. With each adjustment I felt his presence becoming closer and closer. At one point I had to set my boundaries and let him know that his adjustments were making me uncomfortable as they were beginning to infringe on the nether regions. You want to give the yoga teacher the benefit of the doubt but at the same time you have to listen to your inner voice. And this time it was shouting loud and clear. The class finally came to a close with bazaar yogic breathing techniques that I had once witnessed but never practiced myself. He told me that if I lifted my shirt he could see my belly motions better and therefore help more. I abruptly declined and managed to get myself through the practice as well as his final relaxation that resembled a 45-speed record set to 33. Needless to say I ran out at the end of the class and didn’t look back.



For the past 8 mornings I have found a really neat teacher that focuses on Iyengar techniques and Restorative Yoga. Suryans’ classes are a great compliment to Surinder’s evening set. The Iyengar approach slows things right down by deconstructing each pose to truly understand it and feel the alignment principles in action. We practice each pose multiple times and use a lot of props such as bolsters, blankets, blocks and straps to assist the body while in the pose. Tomorrow I am going to start a 10 day course with Suryans. They are installing ropes on the walls to also assist us in the postures. It should be fun to tie ourselves up and then release down completely into the poses. I am sure Downward dog will be an entirely new experience. I’ll keep you posted on the progress.

Imagine all the people

A couple of days ago we followed the river past a funeral of men where they were burning a body on a casket of sticks. Our destination was an old Ashram where the Beatles once stayed in the 1960’s. We finally found the deserted grounds with the gates locked. A caretaker approached us and we were informed that it would be 20 rupees to look inside. We paid the ‘baksheesh’ and entered the overgrown jungle of ancient walkways, dilapidated buildings, super-sized spiders in gigantic webs, vibrant butterflies and tropical birds. As we walked through the grounds I started to imagine what the Ashram would have been like in its time. Who were the great sages? Who stayed in the two-story stone huts? What epiphanies bestowed its visitors? What did the Beatles learn during their stay? How were they inspired? Why was it all let go? The mosquitoes started to attack in droves and we were forced to retreat. On the way out, we started talking with one of the guards who quickly became Bob’s ‘brother’ after he realized he was a Canadian ‘Indian’. I hope to come back another day for a full tour with all my safari gear in tow for some serious bush-whacking.

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Panchakarma or Bust



Check your inhibitions at the door because every opening in your body is about to be invaded. The analogy goes like this; You bring your car for an oil change every 5000 km so the same should go for your body. Panchakarma is a deep internal and external cleanse that consists of a variety of ancient techniques, herbal remedies and dietary restrictions … some a little more pleasant than others.

Day 1: Bob and I arrive at 3am in Rishikesh, a town located in the foothills of the Himalayas on the banks of the Holy River Ganga, home to many great Sages, Saints and Rishis throughout history. After traveling through the mountain roads for the past four days, we are completely exhausted and ready to nestle down and get some good rest. All of Rishikesh is asleep except for a few men drinking chai and a couple of young rickshaw drivers. The bridge that takes us to the Parmarth Niketen Ashram is closed due to animals such as elephants crossing or so the bridge attendant informs us. We thank our driver for taking us this far and transfer our bags to the rickshaw where the two boys assure us they can take us the rest of the way via a road for two wheelers. The end of the road arrives and we still have not reached the gates of the Ashram. We set out on foot even though I am very wary of the street dogs barking and exactly how far we must walk carrying all of our luggage. And then it was like magic … Bob and I walking across the swiftly flowing Ganga on a suspended bridge, wind in our hair and the full moon shining in full force … led by the skinny rickshaw driver reluctantly showing us the way. We arrive at the Gates and enter the compound. Eerie figures of Krishna, Shiva and all the gang greet us in the moonlight. A concrete bench near the reception entrance looks like the perfect place to rest our bones. I close my eyes and listen to the sounds for a few hours. In the early morning, a very happy Western woman sporting a crisp, white sari greets us. She gets us tea and toast, as well as, a room to shower and rest before our room is ready. We wash the filth from the journey and sleep like babies. When we awake in the afternoon it is damn hot and so incredibly bright I can hardly see. I feel like a mole as I rub my eyes and head to the dining hall for lunch. The food is delicious and clean. We move into our permanent room and get settled. Bob visits the Ayurveda clinic to see Dr. Maurya who he has been communicating with before we arrived. He is delighted by his wealth of knowledge and hopeful that the Panchakarma will be the answer to his health problems he has been experiencing for the past number of years. It will involve dedication and a complete lifestyle change.

Day 2: Wake up at 6am for Pranayama (Yogic breathing techniques) and Asana class. We are being taught Hatha Yoga and I am trying to patiently absorb the teachings of this very gentle and slow style of Yoga. Hatha Yoga at this Asharam is a world apart from the Ashtanga style of southern India. It incorporates chanting and prayers before, during and after the Sun and Moon Salutations. I am secretly hoping that the pace will be picked up but know in my heart that I need to just accept the situation whole-heartedly.

After Yoga, a simple breakfast consisting of tea, toast and porridge with aromatic spices is served. I am then off to my Ayurvedic consultation. Apparently I am a Vatta-Pitta … meaning Air/Ether – Fire. With too much air and ether in my constitution. Reading about that specific combination was like hitting the nail on the head. VP people generally have poor circulation and love the sun but cannot handle it. We also love to eat but have trouble digesting large meals. We have wavy hair and when unbalanced fear will often alternate with anger as a response to stress. This can lead to bullying and domineering. A healthy, balanced VP weds the capacity for original thought and the expertise at application of theory. We like to ‘Get er done’. Lightness and intensity are common qualities with a need for intensive self-development. There are tendencies toward addiction as well as a desire for stability.

I decided to go for the Panchakarma for a few days. A program has been prescribed to purify my body and alleviate stress. The first treatments are Abhayanga, an intense oil massage, steam and a ‘basti’, a full-blown South Indian enema. I was first asked to take off all my clothes. Standing there in the buff, I felt so nervous and intimidated. Thank God my practitioners were female. After receiving a makeshift ‘loin cloth’, I laid down on a wooden table and proceeded to receive the best shake down oil massage of a lifetime … and I am talking tons of heated oil and some serious rubbing. Next I was off to the steam which involved sitting in an old cabinet like contraption with your head sticking out of the top hooked up to a pressure cooker and a canister of gas. It resembled something out of a Frankenstein movie but man you could sure feel the sweat starting to roll and the toxins releasing their nasty grip. And for the grand finale … was the ‘basti’. After traveling to Rishikesh and eating food in a variety of unsanitary conditions my plumbing had backed up for six entire days. I understood the rationale and was reluctantly willing to go through with the cure. As I watched them prepare the tools for the basti I could not help but cringe and wonder how the heck I allowed myself to get into this situation. After a few uncomfortable minutes the procedure was finished and I tore off to the toilet. The hounds had been released and I felt like a new person.

Day 3: Early morning Pranayama and Yoga. I am having trouble with certain breathing techniques due to my collapsed right nostril. But nevertheless I will persevere and perhaps with enough discipline begin to clarify the nasal passage. I tried to get into the ‘Advanced’ late morning yoga class but was shot down by Mataji who said it would be too intense in combination with the Panchakarma. Another lesson in patience and letting go of my expectations. Apparently I can’t always get what I want.

However, the Panchakarma treatment today was divine. So much so, I thought I had gone to heaven and joined the ranks of the Hindu Gods. Another full body rub down with herbal oils with not just one but two pairs of hands. Following that my forehead was placed underneath a clay pot resembling a pendulum. My eyes were covered and warm oil continuously poured across my head for 20 glorious minutes. My hair was full of oil and the loving hands of my practitioner, Mary smoothed my hair to keep the oil draining off the table. Talk about the ultimate relaxation and peace of mind. I was a very happy girl after that experience.

In the evenings, Hindu prayers are sung by resident leaders and their choir of ‘orphaned’ boys beside the Ganga River. This is called the ‘Special Divine Ganga Seva’ which is broadcasted to millions of people across India and other countries. A gathering of onlookers participates in the nightly ritual making it quite the spectacle. Banana leaf boats of flowers and incense are set down the river and offered to the Gods to wash away negative thoughts and sins.


‘Parmarth’ means ‘dedicated to the welfare of all’ and ‘Niketan’ means ‘an abode’. This includes both the spiritual welfare of the guests, seekers and pilgrims who come to stay as well as the physical welfare of the needy, impoverished people. In addition to the programs run by the Ashram they are also actively involved in a variety of programs and activities to care for the poor, sick, hungry, homeless and illiterate.

The Mountain Tamers



Imagine living in a place that is completely isolated from the rest of the world for 6 months every year. This is the case for many of the mountain communities in Ladakh. Once the roads close in October the locals know winter is upon them. This is considered a ‘State of Emergency’ in many other parts of the world. Extreme conditions make for resilient and humble people. Every task necessary for survival is tedious and cumbersome at best. Running water ceases to exist as the pipes freeze so trucks deliver water in huge canisters to various stops around town three times per week. Every household meets the truck with as many containers as they can muster and trudges the heavy, cold loads back to their homes. This water must first be boiled for drinking and cooking. Laundry becomes the most dreaded chore as it is all washed by hand and hung on the line where it freezes for three days and then eventually dries.
The electricity is forever on and off again. If there is a storm, families are likely to be without power for days at a time. Heat also becomes a major concern. Small pieces of wood are gathered and prepared before the season, as well as, cow manure dried out to use as another source of fuel. A cow pattie thrown on the fire typically burns for about twenty minutes. Now these fireplaces do not heat an entire home; they heat a single room for as long as they are maintained. This means that clothes must be layered and lots of blankets used for the long, cold nights.
As I spoke to Dolma about the winter experience, I could only imagine the difficulties her and her family face everyday. Life has no choice but to slow down with only the basics taken into consideration – food, clothing and shelter. There are no fresh vegetables available so food such as potatoes, rice and corn must be stockpiled. Often times, the basic necessities such as sugar and salt run out in the community. Families must ration themselves and prepare from the onset of winter.

But why do the roads close for 6 months of the year? Well if you have ever experienced a Ladakhi mountain road you may understand. Twisty, turvy, bumpy, lumpy, single-lane roads slither through the mountainscape. Some are edged with cliffs that drop death-defying lengths to glacial riverbeds far below. Others switchback time and again giving new meaning to turning a corner. Hand painted signs line the road and warn motorists of the dangers and hazards. Some noteworthy signs include (and you have to love the underlying connotations):
~ Better to be Mr. Late, than Late Mr.
~ After whiskey, driving rhiskey.
~ Don’t gossip. Let him drive.
~ Drive slow, live long.
~ If you married, divorce speed.

Compound these roads with ice and snow during the wintertime and you have a recipe for disaster. Pavement seems to be a relatively new phenomenon but is found few and far between. And there definitely are no snow removal mechanisms in these parts. During the warm season, work crews comprised of young boys and men set out to conquer and construct the mountain roads one rock at a time. Everything is constructed by hand using tools that look like they are from prehistoric times. Huge boulders are smashed down to big rocks, which in turn are beaten down to smaller stones, which eventually become gravel and finally sifted to sand. Fire blazes under makeshift containers as tar is churned and asphalt formed. The work crews look extremely exhausted; their faces and clothes blackened by the tar and intense heat of the sun. Yet there are still smiles on their faces as they squat by the side of the road smoking a beadie and watching the world drive on by. They call themselves ‘The Mountain Tamers’ and it is these brave men that provide access to the mountain communities for the 6 months of the year that travel is possible.